08/18/04

Chapter Two

Within international development circles, there is precious little attention paid to the resources, knowledge and aspirations of the local people who are most affected by development programs and projects. Traditional or “indigenous” knowledge is too often marginalized by development specialists and policy-makers. This project report is part of a larger effort to explore ecological and social conditions in two Belizean coastal villages that are facing increasing development pressures. Our goal was to learn about these communities first hand, and document our understanding of these communities in terms of the attitudes, knowledge and local resources of the residents in these villages.

During our time in Monkey River Town and Punta Negra, we interviewed more than 20 residents to gain a better understanding of the community and local attitudes toward eco-tourism development, economic change and the environment.  In this section, we will attempt to summarize the general perceptions, concerns, and needs of the local people.  We found a great deal of optimism in the short time we had to conduct our study. Both communities are actively rebuilding after a devastating hurricane in 2001. New organizations and leadership are emerging as both communities struggle to control their own development destinies. The livelihoods of the people in both villages are still strongly dependent upon fishing and some subsistence agriculture, but tourism is clearly a major force in their economic futures. At the same time, family bonds are strong and essential for local residents to survive and prosper in the village. The main story is one of local people looking for way to harness the increasing potential of eco-tourism while preserving elements of their social and cultural roots.

As a whole our assessment team was impressed by how “connected” the people of both villages are to their surrounding natural environment.  They clearly understand their connection to and dependence upon the ocean, river, jungle and lagoon for survival, and feel a sense of ownership towards these resources, whether or not that ownership is officially recognized or legally documented. In many ways, the identities of local people are defined by their unique relationship to the environment.  When meeting someone for the first time, the conversation would often begin with one sharing his name, followed by his title: fisherman, tour guide, or hunter.  One Monkey River resident summed the relationship up nicely: “This is my jungle, and that is my sea.  Where else would I go?”.  But at the same time, he seemed to belong to the jungle and sea as much as it belonged to him.  Possessing knowledge of the area passed down by generations, and knowing how to survive and prosper there gave him that sense of both belonging and ownership at once that is so difficult for outsiders to understand or define.

As elsewhere in the world, it seems that the residents of Monkey River and Punta Negra tend to take their natural environment for granted, that is, they take it as a given until how it changes in some noticeable way.  A recent example was Hurricane Iris in October 2001. Although the villages are perched precariously close to the sea along a coast known for devastating hurricanes, residents continued to build homes within a few yards of the water. The hurricane swept away most of the homes in the village and seriously eroded a few hundred feet of beach. As they have rebuilt, homes are being located farther back from the sea, and some residents have openly questioned living so close to the water.

Our group was surprised that very few residents we interviewed discussed the newly designated Paynes Creek National Park that borders the village.  Most people did not seem aware of the significance of designating the land a national park, or of the potential impact it might have on their livelihood.   No one seemed to have a very clear picture of how the park might develop in the future, and what that development might mean for the people of Monkey River Town. 

Many residents expressed concern about losing control of the natural resources they depended upon for survival. In particular, people were concerned about losing local control of their land.  Right now, Monkey River Village remains remarkably “insulated” from the rapid pace of development in many Belizean coastal communities. In fact, much of the Belizean coast is perceived to be prime real estate for foreign investors, and this reality worries local leaders.  The Village Council chairperson talked about finding ways to deed land to young people to prevent it from being sold to outsiders, and preventing the circulation of maps of the village so that empty lots would go unnoticed by potential outside buyers.  Several people interviewed seemed to think that, if offered enough money, some residents would sell their land to anyone and move elsewhere, which would enable foreign investors to possibly “get their foot in the door”.  The village council seemed to have plans to try to prevent such sales from happening at all costs, but if local people are having trouble making a living in the area, monetary offers from foreign investors might be difficult to resist.

With a few exceptions such as teaching, local government work, and some local businesses (two stores, three bars, and two hotels), most of the economy of Monkey River Town revolves around two livelihoods: commercial fishing and eco-tourism. The commercial fishing industry is waning because of depleted resources due to over-fishing, for which many of the local fishermen blame foreigners. Many of the locals reported that it is a common practice for the Ministry of Fishing to sell licenses to Guatemalans and Hondurans to fish off the shores of Belize, but they do not have to follow the same restrictions as Belizeans about netting size and the amounts of fish taken.

Many of the fishermen are members of fishing cooperatives located in Independence and Placencia. This seems to be a beneficial arrangement for the locals and for the development organizations. Fishermen can borrow from the cooperative and are guaranteed a certain rate for their lobster, conch, and fish. In return the fishermen can only fish during certain times, use regulated fishing net sizes, are licensed, and can only fish for so many pounds of fish, conch, and lobster per week. This works as an opportunistic arrangement in preserving the environment and still maintaining a certain level of economic achievement.

In order to be competitive, fishermen must obtain a certain skill level, be able to investment in equipment, and have access to a boat.  Many fishermen we talked with were highly dependent on cooperation with friends and family members to earn enough money to make a living fishing.  Brothers, cousins and friends shared boats, trucks or cars for trips to the market, and helped one another build lobster traps and repair machinery.  These informal bonds are vital to the viability of the fishing industry in both Monkey River Town and Punta Negra.  

The sport fishing trade is a potentially lucrative option for Monkey River Town to pursue in the future. An experienced guide may charge between $100 and $500 per day. Both commercial and sport fishing are seasonal, and careful planning would be required for either to provide a reliable source of income year-round.  Several fishermen mentioned that lulls in tourism for sport fishing, in the off season, are often a time used for fixing boats, building lobster traps and making other preparations and repairs.   With more advertising about Monkey River guides, attracting additional tourists interested in fishing may be sufficient to sustain the 15-25 fishermen who currently live in Monkey River Town.  The flexibility, good wages, and the fact that anglers accompanied by local guides tend to have less impact on the environment makes guiding sport fishermen a viable option for many Monkey River men. 

Although highly dependent on diminishing fish populations for livelihood and facing additional regulations that limit the way they fish, the local residents seem willing to accept changing times and fortunes, turning their attention to finding ways to successfully build tourism that best serves local people and interests.  For example, the Village Council is petitioning the Government of Belize for title of riverfront lands west of the village in order to establish a nature preserve.  This is a good first step in protecting the environment, but the tour guide association needs to think carefully about how best to show tourists the small area, establishing rules for guides and visitors.  Keeping trails narrow, allowing time for them to recover occasionally, and maintaining the health of trailside vegetation is important for both tourists and the jungle.     

Local people also realize the risks involved with too much tourism in the area.  Large crowds of people going on jungle tours every day will definitely take a toll on the pristine nature of the area.  Wildlife may start to avoid trails and riverbanks, affecting both their natural habits and the enjoyment of visiting tourists, who are paying to see howler monkeys, parrots, iguanas and crocodiles in their habitats.  In addition, too many tourists could also affect life for villagers in Monkey River Town.  During interviews people mentioned that inviting outsiders to stay in their villages could lead to an increase in crime and a loss of local control over what happens in the village.  People also were concerned about the impact of tourism on the identity of the village- that new values and beliefs and ways of life may change local people.

Eco-tourism seems have considerable potential for growth. As a one resident said during an interview, “People hope for Eco-tourism. There is no chance for any other industry.” Besides quick and easy access to Monkey River, Monkey River Town’s geographic location makes it great starting place for day or overnight trips to the Sapodilla Cayes.  Two to three day tourist package deals could be sold that include a morning and evening jungle tour, a trip to Nicholas or Hunting Caye, and possibly a tour of the mangroves up the coast for manatee sightings.  Several people in Monkey River Town mentioned that obtaining twenty-four hour electricity would attract more tourists to come stay in Monkey River Town overnight, making two or three day trips like this more feasible for tourists.   If more tourists stay overnight or for several days in Monkey River, since the village is so isolated, opening additional stores, bars and restaurants may be possible for residents. 

Monkey River Town is doing an excellent job preparing itself for growth in the tourist industry.  They have started a tourist guide organization, and many of the locals have taken the national exam to become licensed tour guides, learning more scientific facts about the local flora, fauna, and ecosystem, as well as about the history of the area. The town is also planning for the future by petitioning the Belizean government for ten acres upriver on which they plan to build a small store to showcase jungle medicinal plants and sell handicrafts. Local residents hope to attract both tourists and students there to teach them about medicinal herbs found in their jungle.  In addition to educating outsiders, an endeavor like this would help to keep ancient and valuable knowledge about the uses of the jungle alive for future generations of Monkey River residents.

The infrastructure in Monkey River Town is still not sufficient to accommodate large numbers of tourists.  In fact, during our interviews, many residents expressed concern about too much growth and development as a result of increasing tourism.  Several people stated that they did not want Monkey River to “turn into a place like Placencia”. A decision should be made by the village council and tour guide board to determine what the capacity for tourists should be, taking into consideration how many tourists can be housed and fed at any particular time in the village.  Taking protective measures like this during planning for development will also help Monkey River keep its identity as a small, rural, Belizean village on the coast. As one town member put it: “When you come to Monkey River Town, visit Monkey River Town. Don’t bring America with you to see.”  The rustic nature of Monkey River Town will continue to have a certain allure to adventure travelers and anglers, but if the tourist trade is going to expand beyond this niche, local business owners are going to need to consider expanding local infrastructure and modernizing tourist accommodations. For example, mainstream travelers from Europe and North America are generally looking for electric power, ample water supplies and a wider range of hotels and restaurants. Local tourism entrepreneurs need to consider ways to meet the expectations of travelers while maintaining the local flavor of their food and accommodations. This balance is difficult to achieve, and many foreign-run tourist ventures strive to appeal totally to Westernized cultural tastes and preferences. This is clearly a triumph of comfort over culture, as well as an erosion of local values.

Even though the vast majority of the population wants to see eco-tourism flourish in Monkey River Town, almost everyone we spoke with was wary of unguarded growth.  A program has been established to aid local residents in purchasing land in and around Monkey River Town in order to promote local rather than foreign land ownership.   In addition, a local ordinance was recently passed that restricts new buildings to two stories or less—obviously because of potential storm damage issues, but some felt it might help keep foreign-owned resorts and hotels out of Monkey River Village. As a Monkey River resident said about growth in tourism: “If we don’t take development seriously, we could end up like Placencia. Sometimes we are better off than those that have money. At the end of the day, will $100 matter?”

Some residents still maintain small milpa plots in the jungle to supplement their diets and generate income. Subsistence farming used to be more common, but fewer young people are learning the ways of small-scale agriculture.  Some residents worry that the village will become more dependent on outside food sources in the future as the youth turn away from farming.  In addition, hunting “bush meat” is still practiced by many locals to supplement their diet of fish and chicken. They harvest iguanas, deer, and other animals for meat in the surrounding jungle. 

A few mile north of the village, there is a thirteen hundred acre Danish-owned farm that produces bananas, mangos, oranges, cassavas and shrimp for export. The plantation employs about 1,240 people from local communities on a regular basis, and as many as 1,600 people during peak seasons. The people they hire are mostly indigenous and Guatemalan workers.  Few Monkey River residents work on this farm. According to our contacts, local people prefer the wages and lifestyle of a fisherman or tour guide.  Several Monkey River residents mentioned that they felt the farm was responsible for the changes the river has undergone over the past few decades.  Two middle-aged brothers reminisced about the days of their youth, when the mouth of the river was more than thirty feet deep.  Now the river is a mere twelve feet deep, possibly due to decreased flow rate and increased sediment loading from upriver. 

There is considerable concern in both communities about the lack of a full-time doctor in the area. Monkey River Town has a trained nurse aide/midwife whose capacity includes helping women through pregnancy and childbirth, and giving medication for stomach ailments and colds.

Monkey River Town has been offered a Cuban Doctor, but they feared the language barrier would be a problem for many residents. They are hoping that with the construction of a new health center with living quarters, they will be able to attract a registered nurse or be able to train a local resident to take over this position.

There is a strong emphasis on preventive medicine within the village and the nation as a whole. The government takes an active role in delivering childhood immunizations and spraying for mosquitoes. There are also active public campaigns for cleaning up possible “vector areas” and giving classes in the local elementary school about community health issues. The preventive approach seems to be working, given the lack of infectious diseases, such as, Cholera and Dengue Fever. However, it is impossible to know how extensive other health problems, like adult diabetes and HIV/AIDS, might be in the community without more extensive testing among the residents.

Medical supplies are limited in both Monkey River Town and Punta Negra. The health center generally is only stocked with anti-acids, acetametaphin, ibuprofen, and condoms.  However, there are numerous medicines and herbs that local residents often derive from the jungle, including those that treat diarrhea, headaches, snakebites, and insect bites, among other ailments.  During our visit to Monkey River, a professor of ethnobotany from the US was visiting the village to study possible herbal remedies available in the jungle.  Options for using readily available medicinal plants in the jungle should be integrated into a health plan for Monkey River.   

Education is an important priority for the people of Monkey River.  Many of the locals commented about the lack of access for local youth to a high school or technical school. The only high school in the area is in Independence, and it has eight communities vying for the limited slots available in the ninth grade. Children who have an interest in continuing with their education must pass a qualifying test and then supply their own uniform, transportation, and supplies to attend the school in Independence, which can be expensive.  Monkey River Town has a limited supply of grants to give to children. They currently have six students attending secondary school in Independence, and they are trying to fund another student next year.

The school currently has four teachers with strong family ties in the community.  They currently have 58 students and would like to have another teacher, but the Belizean Government has refused to pay another salary, claiming that there are not enough students to need five teachers.

Although the wages for the teachers come from the government, much of the money for school supplies and for building the new school (after the old one was destroyed by the hurricane) comes from the Anglican Church. The Anglican Church helps supply the school with the agreement that some of the curriculum is based in the Anglican faith.  Housing facilities were constructed next door to the new school in hopes that free housing might attract volunteer teachers. One or two teachers usually come every summer from Britain, but Monkey River would like teachers to stay for a full year or longer.  In hopes of finding more long-term teachers, residents have been in contact with the U.S. international program, Peace Corps, in hopes of getting a volunteer assigned to their village. Thus far, they have not heard back from Peace Corps, but they are still hopeful.

One member of the town council stated: “Education is our number one priority. We want to invest in our youth.  We don’t build for today- we build for tomorrow.”   Many of the people interviewed mentioned youth retention as a very important priority for the future of Monkey River Town.  Both educating young people and training them to work in a particular profession are both important priorities in Monkey River Town.  Several people interviewed expressed concerns about the relevance of the education children receive in Monkey River to real life in Monkey River Town. Residents mentioned that children should learn about the jungle plants and animals, fishing, hunting, keeping milpas, community organization, and the history and traditions of their ancestors.   Integrating this type of knowledge into the curriculum seemed important to many residents to equip young people to be successful in Monkey River as adults.